McLaughlin Canyon climbing has quietly become a core destination in Washington's Okanogan County. With 103 documented routes mapped across gneiss cliffs rising up to 500 feet, the canyon delivers the highest density of quality sport and trad climbing in north-central Washington. Its public BLM access, minimal crowds, and raw scenery have earned it the reputation as the "jewel of the Okanogan" on Mountain Project.
Why McLaughlin Canyon Is the Okanogan's Premier Crag
McLaughlin Canyon is the most concentrated climbing resource for several hours in any direction. While the Methow Valley is famous for alpine granite, and Mazama has its sport walls, nothing in north-central Washington rivals McLaughlin for volume of well-bolted gneiss, ease of approach, and season length. The canyon sits at 1,450 feet elevation, below the ponderosa and larch belt, so it comes into condition before most Cascade cliffs. The vertical to overhanging faces see sun all winter, making late February through April and again in October prime season.
The surrounding country is stark: dry grassland, brittle sage, and scattered pine. Views south stretch toward the Columbia Basin's basalt rimrock. Wildlife is constant: eagles, deer, and rattlesnakes. The main cliffs sit entirely on BLM land with no permits, fees, or crowds. For route density and public access, no other Okanogan area compares.
The Geology: Tonasket Gneiss and Its Climbing Character
Every route at McLaughlin Canyon climbs Tonasket Gneiss, a hard, banded metamorphic rock formed deep within the Okanogan Metamorphic Core Complex. Unlike the monolithic granite of the Cascades, this gneiss is more variable: schistose bands, quartzite seams, and pockets of weathered feldspar. The best faces present solid, juggy holds and clean cracks. Some less-traveled walls demand caution and a wire brush to clear friable flakes.
Cliff heights range from 50 feet on the Lower West Wall to over 400 feet on the Main Wall and Last Wall. Steep sport routes, meandering trad cracks, and multipitch lines all exist within a 15-minute walk of the car. The gneiss's friction, angular holds, and pocketed faces create a climbing style somewhere between Leavenworth's Icicle Canyon and interior basalt columns. Expect a mix of crimps, jugs, and the occasional sloper. Helmets are essential; the rock, while solid on classics, can be unpredictable on obscure lines.
Access and BLM Land
All climbing south of McLaughlin Canyon Road is on public Bureau of Land Management (BLM) property. No passes, fees, or permits are required. Parking is allowed in established pullouts at 1.6 miles from the Janis Road junction.
Most land north of the road is private with no access granted. The one exception is Corral Wall, directly north of the trailhead parking, which sits almost entirely on BLM land. The cliff walls east of the trailhead parking are also predominantly private property, with a small section of BLM on the northernmost portion of that cliffband. Those private landowners currently allow climbing but prohibit installing fixed anchors or defacing the rock. Respect this access or it will disappear.
On BLM land, the agency has requested climbers use only established trails and minimize new path creation. All new bolts must be stainless steel with camouflaged hangers, per BLM guidelines.
Approach Beta
From Tonasket, drive south on US Highway 97 for 4 miles. Turn left just before Janis Bridge onto Janis Road. Follow for 0.3 miles, then turn left on McLaughlin Canyon Road. At 1.6 miles, park in the main BLM pullout at 1,450 feet elevation. The cliffs rise immediately south, visible from the road.
Approaches are short. Most walls are within 5-20 minutes on faint but obvious climber trails. The Main Wall and Lower West Wall are closest, up a sandy slope with occasional rock steps. The Last Wall and South Buttress require more contouring through sagebrush and scree, but nothing technical. Rattlesnakes are common from April through October. Bring extra water, as there is no natural source.
Route Inventory: 103 Routes Across Nine Areas
McLaughlin Canyon hosts 103 documented routes: 76 sport, 25 trad, and 2 toprope. Grades range from 5.6 to 5.12+, with the best quality between 5.8 and 5.11. The majority are single pitch (50-110 feet), but several multi-pitch lines reach up to 5 pitches and over 400 feet.
Sport routes dominate the Main Wall, South Buttress, and Last Wall. Trad routes are concentrated on the Wall of Cracks and Lower West Wall, with classic crack systems on the Main Wall. Route development continues at a measured pace. Ground-up first ascents on uncleaned rock are not recommended due to variable rock quality. No formal published guidebook exists; Mountain Project entries are the primary resource.
Named Crags: Nine Sectors
- Lower West Wall: Short, steep faces. Sport and trad. Afternoon sun makes it a fine late-winter crag.
- Corral Wall: Small cliff north of main parking. Moderate trad and mixed routes.
- Wall of Cracks: Trad-focused. Clean crack lines from 5.7 to 5.10.
- Main Wall: The centerpiece. Dozens of sport lines, several multipitch, routes to 400 feet.
- Little West Canyon: Isolated canyon with bolted routes. Variable rock.
- South Buttress: Large wall with excellent multi-pitch sport routes.
- Last Wall: Half-mile-long cliff. Tallest continuous face. Subsections: NW End, The Mid West, SW End.
- S by SE Face: Long cliff with minimal development. Technical face climbs.
- Chewiliken Creek Crags: Isolated crag roughly 2 miles south. 24+ established routes on BLM land.
Classic Routes
| Route | Grade | Type | Pitches | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| The Dihedral | 5.9+ | Trad | 1 | The classic McLaughlin trad route. Long varied climbing, requires a full rack. |
| Fake News | 5.11- | Sport | 5 | Highest-rated route (4 stars on Mountain Project). Roofs and technical faces. 70m rope, 16 draws. |
| Honeycomb Arete | 5.7+ | Trad | 2 | Iconic arete on Main Wall. Gear to #3 Camalot. Exposed, stellar position. |
| Purple Sage | 5.8 | Sport | 1 | Well-protected, positive holds, dramatic finish. |
| Red-tail | 5.9- | Trad | 2 | Classic hand and finger crack. Doubles in #0.5-#2 range. |
| Icarus | 5.10a | Sport | 1 | Technical face with thin cruxes. 9 bolts. |
| Climate Change | 5.11- | Sport | 5 | Sustained multipitch with wild roof on P3. 60m rope, 20 draws. |
Seasonality
McLaughlin Canyon sits in a microclimate that allows climbing from late February through April and again in October and early November. Spring brings the best friction and wildflowers, plus the start of rattlesnake season. Fall offers crisp mornings and long afternoons.
Summer is hotter but not off-limits. Temperatures routinely hit 90-100 degrees, but shade management makes year-round climbing possible. The east walls catch shade early in the morning, and the main canyon walls fall into shade by late afternoon and evening. Plan your session around the sun and summer climbing is viable.
The gneiss dries within hours after rain. Beware of brittle flakes after freeze-thaw cycles in early spring. Wildfires impacted the area in 2007 and 2015, but regrowth is steady.
Safety and Hazards
McLaughlin Canyon is home to the Northern Pacific rattlesnake, active from April through October along trails, under rocks, and on ledges. Step carefully and avoid placing hands blindly.
Rock quality is generally good on classics but variable on newer or less-traveled lines. A wire brush helps clean holds and ledges. Helmets are mandatory; rockfall is a real risk, especially when parties are above. The nearest hospital is in Tonasket, 10 minutes away.
Required Gear
For most routes: 10-16 quickdraws, a 60 or 70-meter rope, helmet, and personal anchor. For trad lines: double rack of cams (#0.3-#3 Camalot), stoppers, and slings. Many anchors are bolted with rings, but bring extra cord or webbing as some fixed hardware is aging. A lightweight wire brush is essential for less-traveled routes.
